Refrigerator Repair
Dishwasher Repair
Washer Repair
Electric Dryer Repair
Oven Repair
Stove/Cooktop Repair
Freezer Repair
GAS Appliance Repair
Appliance Installation
Amana Appliance Repair
We repair Amana washers, electric dryers, dishwashers, refrigerators and electric ranges. Amana runs on Whirlpool platforms, so codes read as a pair, F7E1 rather than F7 or E1 alone, and dishwashers without a display count the code out in blinks. Labour runs $92 to $278, and the service call is free with the repair.
Your Local Appliance Repair Company
- Experienced technicians
- Manufacturer parts where they are available
- Convenient Scheduling
- Prompt Service
- Diagnosis at your address
- Quoted before work starts
- Warranty up to 3 months
- Transparent Pricing
Article Reviewed & Technically Verified by Dmitriy D., Lead Appliance Repair Technician, ODP-Certified (15+ Years Experience)
What customers said about their Amana repair
Verified reviews from our Google Business Profile.
“Dmitriy did a good job fixed my fridge”
“Dimitriy was amazing! He fixed my dryer and cleaned my vents. He was personable and explained everything along the process.”
“Dmitriy was able to identify the problem and fix my fridge same day, after hours. Highly recommend”
“Dmitriy did a good job fixed my dishwasher”
Find Your Amana Fault
Start with the appliance and what it is doing. Amana codes read as a pair, an F number with an E number, so F7E1 rather than F7 or E1 on its own. Many of the faults we are called out for never show a code at all, and those rows are here too.
| Appliance | What it is doing | On an Amana this is usually | Code, if any |
|---|---|---|---|
| Washer | Water on the floor while it fills | The inlet hoses or their washers, then the valve body. Shut the taps and it stops, which confirms it in seconds | none |
| Washer | Water on the floor while it drains | The drain hose connection or the standpipe backing up, before the pump is suspected | none |
| Washer | Leaking from under the front of an NFW | The door boot seal, usually split at the bottom where coins and clips collect | none |
| Washer | Leaking from underneath an NTW top-loader | The tub seal or the pump housing. This one needs the cabinet opened to tell apart, so we quote after looking | none |
| Washer | Dead, no lights, nothing happens | The outlet and breaker first. Then the lid switch, since the control will not start a cycle without it | none, or PF |
| Washer | Lid will not lock, cycle will not start | Amana's own wording: an obstruction in the lid lock area, before the lock itself | F5E2, LdL |
| Washer | Fills slowly or not at all | Inlet valve W11038689, or the hose filters. The machine then force-drains for 8 to 10 minutes and ignores buttons | F8E1, LF |
| Washer | Agitates but will not spin | The shift actuator W10913953, the single most common part on this platform | F7E5 |
| Washer | Water left in the drum | Pump filter and impeller before the pump is condemned | F9E1, drn |
| Washer | Banging or walking across the floor | Load distribution first, then the suspension rod kit W10780045 | F0E5, Ofb, uL |
| Washer | Musty or mouldy smell | Residue in the boot seal and dispenser, or water sitting in the pump filter. Rarely a parts job | none |
| Washer | Burning smell | Stop using it and unplug it. Belt, motor or a seized pump, and running it further makes it worse | none |
| Washer | Hot and cold reversed, or too much foam | Hoses swapped at the tap, or non-HE detergent. Neither needs a part | HC, F8E5, Sud |
| Dryer | Runs but clothes stay damp | Restricted airflow. Amana names the lint screen, a clogged vent, or a vent crushed, kinked or with too many turns | AF, F4E3 |
| Dryer | Tumbles cold, no heat at all | Element 279838, thermal fuse WP3392519, or thermostats. L2 means low or no line voltage from the house | L2, or none |
| Dryer | Stops part way through a cycle | Usually the thermal cut-off tripping on restricted airflow, so the vent gets checked in the same visit | none |
| Dryer | Getting too hot, or a burning smell | Stop using it. Lint against the heater and a blocked vent are the usual pair, and this one is a fire risk | none |
| Dryer | Rumbling or squealing | Roller kit 349241T and belt 341241, usually done together | none |
| Dishwasher | Water on the floor at the door | The door gasket, or overfoaming from the wrong detergent. Both look identical on the floor | none |
| Dishwasher | Lights blinking in a repeating pattern | That is the code. Count the flashes, note the pause, count again. Decode below | see blink table |
| Dishwasher | Will not run, drains on its own | Water in the drip tray. The machine drains and blocks operation deliberately | F8E4, 8 pause 4 |
| Dishwasher | Not filling | Amana's H2O code. The tap, the inlet valve, then the float | H2O |
| Dishwasher | Dishes coming out wet | Rinse aid empty before anything else, then the heating element W10518394 | none |
| Dishwasher | Smells bad | The filter W10872845 and the sump. A ten minute clean solves most of these | none |
| Fridge | Water pooling under the crispers or on the floor | A blocked defrost drain. The ABB cabinets take a P-trap drain tube kit W10619951 for exactly this | none |
| Fridge | Freezer cold, fresh food warming | The defrost circuit. Bi-metal thermostat WPW10225581 and heater WP2323198 on the side-by-sides | none published |
| Fridge | Ice maker has stopped | The fill tube frozen, or the water inlet valve WPW10179146. Check the shut-off before booking | none |
| Fridge | Running constantly | Door seals and condenser coils before any sealed-system worry | none |
| Fridge | Display shows PO, alarm sounded | Not a fault. Power was out and the freezer rose to 18°F or higher. Check the food, then clear it | PO |
| Fridge | A letter F flashing on the display | Amana publishes no meaning for this one. Its own instruction is a one minute power cycle, then service | F, undefined |
| Range | Oven temperature wrong, or will not heat | The oven sensor WPW10181986 or its wiring, which is what Amana names for F3E0 | F3E0, F3E2 |
| Range | Door locked shut after a self-clean | The latch motor or its switch. Let the oven cool fully first, since many unlock on their own | F9-1, F9-2 |
| Range | Display shows F9 or F9E0 from new | Amana's stated cause is a miswired outlet or connection. That is an electrician, not a range fault | F9, F9E0 |
| Range | One surface element will not heat | The infinite switch, WP3148953 for 8 inch and WP3149404 for 6 inch, or the element | none |
| Any | Display reads PF or LOC | Nothing is broken. PF is a power failure during the cycle, LOC is the control lock switched on | PF, LOC |
Leaking right now? Turn off the taps behind a washer or the shut-off under a dishwasher, switch the appliance off at the breaker, and call us rather than running another cycle to see what happens. Most leaks we attend are a seal, a hose or a blocked drain, and the repair is far cheaper than the floor underneath it.
Which Amana models we take. NTW and NFW washers, NED electric dryers, ADB and ADFS dishwashers, ART, ABB, ASI and ASD refrigerators, AZF and AZC freezers, and AER radiant or ACR coil electric ranges. The NGD and AGR variants are outside what we book, and the prefix on your model plate is what settles it in one glance.
Amana Washer Repair
The Amana top-loader is Whirlpool's Vertical Modular Washer, sold here as the NTW4519JW at 4.4 cubic feet with a 680 RPM maximum spin. The front-loader is the NFW5800HW. They report faults differently enough that the model number changes the visit.
On the NTW the fault we are called out for most is a machine that fills, agitates and drains but will not spin. That is the shift actuator, W10913953, and it is a stocked item in Canada rather than a special order. The tech sheet calls the matching code F7E5 a Shifter Fault. Second most common is F5E2, and Amana's own wording is worth repeating because it saves a call: the washer cannot engage the lid lock because there may be an obstruction in the lid lock area.
An F8E1 has a behaviour that alarms owners. Amana documents that after the code the washer runs a forced drain for 8 to 10 minutes during which the control accepts no input. The machine is not frozen, it is finishing a sequence.
| Code | Name on the factory tech sheet | Checked first |
|---|---|---|
| F0E2 | Over Suds Condition | Detergent type and dose. HE machines need HE dose |
| F0E5 | Off Balance Load | Load distribution, then the suspension rods |
| F3E1 | Pressure Sensor Fault | The sensor hose for kinks and water before the sensor |
| F5E1 | Lid Switch Fault | The switch and its harness |
| F5E2 | Lid Lock Fault | An obstruction in the lock area, then lock W11307244 |
| F7E5 | Shifter Fault | Shift actuator W10913953 and its connector |
| F7E7 | Motor Unable to Reach Target RPM | Load balance, then a dragging basket |
| F8E1 | No Fill, Long Fill | Taps, hose filters, then inlet valve W11038689 |
| F8E5 | Hot, Cold Reversed | The hoses at the tap. No part needed |
| F9E1 | Long Drain | Pump filter, impeller, then the standpipe height |
Consumer meanings come from Amana's own top-load washer error code library, which publishes 55 individual code articles. The names above are those printed on the factory tech sheet for the platform. More on washer repair, a top-loader that will not spin and a washer that shakes.
Amana Dryer Repair
Two Amana dryers, two different conversations. The YNED5800HW front-load is electronic, 7.4 cubic feet, 240V at 30A and 5400W, with three moisture sensors. The NED4655EW top-load is a mechanical-dial machine, and its manual carries no error codes at all, only a symptom table. If yours has a dial and no display, there is no code to look for and nothing is wrong with it.
On both, no heat ends at the same four parts: element 279838, thermal fuse WP3392519, cycling thermostat WP3387134 or high-limit WP3977767. A blown fuse is a symptom, so we clear the vent run in the same visit rather than leaving you to call again in a month.
AF or F4E3 is the one to act on yourself first. Amana defines it as restricted airflow and names the causes: the lint screen or vent is clogged, or the vent is crushed, kinked or has too many turns. That is often a free fix. Rumbling and squealing is the roller kit 349241T with belt 341241. See electric dryer repair and a dryer that takes too long.
Amana Dishwasher Repair, and How to Read the Blinking Lights
This is the most useful thing on the page for anyone with an Amana dishwasher, and almost nobody explains it. Models with a display show the code directly. Models with only lights count it out. Amana publishes the decode: watch a repeating sequence, count the rapid flashes, note the pause, count the second group. Its own worked example is that seven flashes, a pause, one flash, a pause, then a repeat, is an F7E1.
| Blink pattern | Code | Amana's meaning |
|---|---|---|
| 8 · pause · 4 | F8E4 | Water detected in the drip tray. The machine drains and blocks operation on purpose |
| 7 · pause · 2 | F7E2 | Wash motor error |
| 9 · pause · 1 | F9E1 | Long drain, not draining |
| 6 · pause · 1 | F6E1 | User interface error, main control |
| 2 · pause · 1 | F2E1 | Stuck key or console error |
| 1 · pause · 1 | F1E1 | Control fault |
| no code, no fill | H2O | Not detecting water |
Amana publishes 19 dishwasher F-code articles and 11 separate flashing-light articles, so if your pattern is not above it still has an official meaning. The parts behind the common ones are ordinary: drain pump WPW10348269, wash impeller WP99002659, heating element W10518394 on the ADB1400 range. Before we come out it is worth reading Amana's own code page and trying the reset it describes: cancel the cycle, cut power at the plug or breaker, wait a full minute, restore. Some codes clear and stay clear. See dishwasher repair, drainage faults and a machine that will not fill.
Amana Refrigerator and Freezer Repair
Amana invented both configurations it still sells here. The side-by-side arrived in 1949 and the bottom-freezer in 1957, and the Canadian line today is the ART top-freezers, ABB bottom-freezers, ASI side-by-sides and the AZF and AZC freezers.
Set your expectations on codes before you look. Amana publishes no F#E# fault table for refrigeration at all, unlike its laundry and dishwashers. What it publishes are indicators. PO means the power was out and the freezer rose to 18°F or higher, which is a food-safety message rather than a fault. An over-temperature alarm means the fridge went above 48°F or the freezer above 15°F for more than an hour and a half. And a flashing letter F has no published meaning whatsoever: Amana's own instruction is to cut power for a minute and then book service.
So the diagnosis here is done the old way, on symptoms. Freezer cold with the fridge warming is the defrost circuit, and on the ASD side-by-sides that means bi-metal thermostat WPW10225581, heater WP2323198 or evaporator fan blade WP2169142. Water under the crispers is a blocked drain, and the ABB cabinets have a P-trap drain tube kit W10619951 for exactly that. Sealed-circuit work in Ontario requires an Ozone Depletion Prevention certificate.
More on fridge repair, freezer repair, a fridge that will not cool and cleaning the condenser coils.
Amana Range and Oven Repair
Two electric families, and they take different parts. ACR is the coil top, the YACR4303MFW and YACR4503SFW. AER is the radiant smoothtop, the YAER6203MSS and YAER6603SFW. Amana sells no induction range in Canada, so if a listing tells you otherwise it is describing a different brand.
Oven faults are dominated by one part. Amana's published cause for F3E0 is a problem with the oven temperature sensor, the control, or the associated wiring, and F3E2 adds the warming drawer sensor where fitted. We measure the sensor, WPW10181986, and check its connector before ordering anything, because a corroded connector produces the same code as a dead sensor and costs nothing to fix.
Surface faults are the infinite switches, WP3148953 for the 8 inch element and WP3149404 for the 6 inch, or the dual element control switch WPW10434452 on the radiant tops. One code sends us away rather than in: F9 or F9E0, where Amana's stated cause is that the outlet or the connection to the appliance may be miswired. That is an electrician's job.
See stove and cooktop repair, oven repair and a noisy oven.
How a Technician Puts an Amana Into Diagnostic Mode
The code on the display is one fault. The control stores more, and getting at them is what separates a diagnosis from a guess. Whirlpool publishes the entry sequences for these platforms, and they are unusual enough to be worth seeing.
On the NTW top-loader there is no button combination at all, only the knob. With the machine in standby, turn the selector fully counterclockwise to reset, then clockwise one click, clockwise, clockwise, counterclockwise, clockwise, each with about half a second between them, and the whole sequence inside six seconds. Done correctly, every status LED flashes on and off at half-second intervals. From there the control gives up its stored codes, up to four of them.
On the front-load washer and the electronic dryer it is a three-button pattern. With the appliance in standby, pick any three buttons other than POWER, press them in order, and repeat that same three-button sequence twice more, all within eight seconds. On a dryer, two codes only ever appear inside this mode, F2E1 for a stuck button and F3E6 or F3E7 for the moisture sensor strip, so a technician who never enters diagnostics will never see them.
On the dishwasher and the range, there is nothing to enter. Amana publishes no service diagnostic sequence for either. The dishwasher gets a documented power-cycle reset and the range articles all end the same way, cut power for a minute then book service.
One Chassis, Several Badges
Here is the fact that decides parts availability on this brand. The factory tech sheet for the Amana top-load washer platform is document W10280489. The identical document, same number, is catalogued under Whirlpool, Maytag, Admiral and Crosley as well. One machine, one service document, five badges on the front panel.
Individual parts follow the same pattern. The shift actuator W10913953 is listed as fitting Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore and Amana. The inlet valve W11038689 covers Whirlpool, Amana, Maytag and Kenmore. The dryer element 279838 is listed for Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper and Maytag, and it is the element on the Amana NED4655EW1. The refrigerator defrost thermostat WPW10392132 spans Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Inglis and Magic Chef.
What that means for you is good news and worth saying plainly: Amana parts are ordinary Whirlpool-group stock in Canada rather than a special order, and they are priced accordingly. Our Whirlpool, Maytag, Admiral and Inglis work is largely the same work.
Whether a repair is worth doing is a separate question from whether the part exists. Our guides on repairing or replacing a washing machine, a dryer and a refrigerator set out how we weigh it.
We have technicians based in eight regions rather than dispatched from one hub: the GTA, Barrie, London and Ottawa in Ontario, Vancouver in British Columbia, Winnipeg in Manitoba, Halifax in Nova Scotia, and New York City. Each has its own local number. Amana is a mainstream brand here, so parts are usually same-week rather than special order. The service areas page lists the number nearest you.
