
Two unrelated appliances carry this name in Canada: Kaiser Avantgarde, a collection from the German maker Kaiser, and AVG, the house brand of a Quebec importer once called Les Distributions Avantgarde. Check the badge before you book, because the parts differ completely. Labour runs $92 to $278, and the service call is free with the repair.
Your Local Appliance Repair Company
This is the first thing we establish on the phone, and it takes about a minute. The two are not related, they are not made by the same company, and no part from one fits the other.
| Kaiser Avantgarde | AVG | |
|---|---|---|
| Badge on the appliance | Says Kaiser. "Avantgarde" is the collection name, not the maker, so it often appears only in the brochure or on the box | Says AVG on the rating plate |
| Who makes it | Kaiser, founded 1995, German in origin and now run out of London. Its collections are Empire, Avantgarde Pro, Art Deco, Grand Chef, La Perle and Belle Epoque | Les Distributions Avantgarde, a Quebec importer, bought by Distinctive in July 2023. Distinctive is a division of Groupe Amiel alongside Corbeil |
| What it covers | A full kitchen line: ovens, hobs, range cookers, cooker hoods, microwaves, dishwashers and refrigeration | A narrow line: range hoods, wine cellars and beverage centres, and bottom-freezer refrigerators |
| Look of it | European styling, 60 cm built-ins, glass and stainless, freestanding range cookers | North American sizing, mostly hoods in under-cabinet, wall, island and power pack form |
| Where it was bought | Rarely a Canadian big-box. More often brought over, bought through a specialist, or already in the home when it was purchased | Home Depot Canada, Tasco, Appliance Canada, Goemans, BonPrix |
| Parts route | No Canadian distributor we could find. Parts are sourced individually, and we confirm availability before booking | Reliable Parts Canada stocks an AVG catalogue |
If you cannot tell: photograph the rating plate and send it to us. On an oven it is on the door frame, on a hood inside behind the filters, on a fridge on an inner side wall, on a dishwasher on the door edge. Where the badge on the front and the plate inside disagree, the plate is what decides the parts. We would rather sort that out before the visit than on your doorstep.
Neither brand publishes a public fault-code list we could verify, so everything here is diagnosed from behaviour rather than read off a display. The last column tells you which of the two the entry applies to.
| Appliance | What it is doing | What it usually is | Which one |
|---|---|---|---|
| Oven / range | Runs hot, runs cold, or will not hold a set temperature | The oven sensor and its connector before the control board. It is a resistance device and it drifts with age | Kaiser |
| Oven / range | Dead oven, but the cooktop still works | Check the breaker first. A 240V appliance can lose one leg and still look partly alive. Then the bake element | Kaiser |
| Oven / range | Door locked shut after a cleaning cycle | Let it cool completely, since many release on their own. After that the latch motor and its switch | Kaiser |
| Oven / range | Fan runs constantly after cooking | Normal on most European built-ins. The cooling fan runs on until the cavity drops below a set point | Kaiser |
| Cooktop / hob | One element or zone will not heat | On coil and solid tops, the element or its receptacle. Burnt contacts are common where a pot has boiled over | Kaiser |
| Cooktop / hob | Induction zone clicks on then drops out | Pan size or material first, then the cooling fan and the board it protects | Kaiser |
| Cooktop / hob | Touch controls unresponsive or erratic | Moisture or grease across the sensor strip, then the control membrane | Kaiser |
| Cooker hood | Motor runs but pulls almost nothing | Grease in the baffle or mesh filters, then the blower wheel and the duct run | Both |
| Cooker hood | Dead, no light and no fan | The switch or control panel, then the harness where it enters the cabinet | Both |
| Cooker hood | Fan works, lights do not | The lamps and holders first. On newer hoods, the LED driver | Both |
| Cooker hood | Loud, rattling or vibrating | A loose or grease-loaded blower wheel, or a filter not seated | Both |
| Wine cellar | Not reaching the set temperature | Room temperature, door seal and the internal fan. A cabinet packed with no gaps cannot circulate air | AVG |
| Wine cellar | Condensation on the glass door | Humid room air meeting cold glass. Common in a basement in summer and not a fault | AVG |
| Wine cellar | Both zones drifting on a dual-zone unit | The damper or the second-zone fan rather than the sealed system | AVG |
| Refrigerator | Running but not getting cold | The defrost circuit or the evaporator fan long before the compressor | Both |
| Refrigerator | Freezer cold, fresh food warming | Frost blocking the evaporator so air stops moving between compartments | Both |
| Refrigerator | Water under the crispers | A blocked defrost drain, which is a clearing job rather than a parts job | Both |
| Refrigerator | Loud or new noises | The evaporator or condenser fan. Gurgling from the back is refrigerant and normal | Both |
| Dishwasher | Water standing in the tub | Filters and sump, then the drain pump and the hose loop under the sink | Kaiser |
| Dishwasher | Water on the kitchen floor | Overfilled rinse aid causes foam that reads as a leak. After that the door seal and levelling | Kaiser |
| Dishwasher | Dishes coming out wet | Rinse aid first, then the heating circuit | Kaiser |
| Dishwasher | Stops part way through a cycle | A fill or drain step it never completed. Check the tap, the filters and the drain hose | Kaiser |
| Washer | Will not drain or spin | Pump filter and the drain hose before the pump itself | Kaiser |
| Washer | Walking or banging | Load distribution, levelling, then the suspension | Kaiser |
| Washer | Leaking from the front | The door boot seal, split at the bottom where coins and clips collect | Kaiser |
| Washer | Musty smell | Residue in the door seal and the dispenser drawer | Kaiser |
| Dryer | Tumbles cold | Element, thermostat or thermal fuse. A blown fuse is a symptom, so the vent gets checked too | Kaiser |
| Dryer | Takes several cycles to dry | Lint filter and the exhaust run. On a condenser dryer, the condenser block and its filters | Kaiser |
| Dryer | Burning smell | Stop using it. Lint against the heater is how dryer fires start | Kaiser |
| Any | Dead, nothing at all | The outlet and the breaker before anything inside the appliance | Both |
A note on error codes. Lists of Kaiser fault codes circulate online. We could not tie any of them to Kaiser documentation or to a named model, and one of the sources carrying them warns that its own table does not apply to machines fitted with Indesit or Ariston controllers. We publish no code table for either brand rather than one we cannot stand behind. Read us the code together with the model number off the plate and we will work out what it belongs to. If your machine turns out to use an Ariston control board, our Ariston page carries the codes that scheme does publish.
Kaiser builds a full kitchen line, and Avantgarde Pro is its most modern collection: electric ovens, induction hobs, wall-mounted cooker hoods, range cookers and microwaves, alongside the dishwashers and refrigeration Kaiser makes across its other ranges. These are European appliances, so the sizes are metric and the parts are ordered against the model and serial number rather than picked off a shelf.
The honest constraint is supply. We found no Canadian Kaiser distributor, so parts are sourced individually and the wait is part of the quote rather than a surprise afterwards. We confirm availability before booking, and where a part cannot be had in reasonable time we say so instead of stripping the appliance and leaving you with it in pieces.
An oven that runs hot, runs cold, or refuses to hold a setting starts at the oven sensor and its connector, not at the board. The sensor is a resistance device, it is inexpensive, and it drifts with age. We measure it cold against the manufacturer's figure before anyone talks about electronics.
If the oven is completely dead while a separate cooktop still works, check the breaker before booking: a 240V circuit can lose one leg and leave the appliance looking partly alive. A door that stays locked after a cleaning cycle usually releases once the cavity cools, so let it cool fully before you call. And a cooling fan that keeps running after you switch off is normal on most European built-ins rather than a fault.


A freestanding range cooker combines the oven faults above with cooktop faults below in one cabinet, and the first job is working out which side the problem sits on. An oven that will not heat while the burners work points at the bake element, the sensor or the control; burners that fail while the oven is fine point at the switches and the elements.
We service electric range cookers. Gas models are outside what we take on at present, and on a dual-fuel appliance that means we can look after the electric oven side but not the gas top.
On coil and solid element tops, a single zone that will not heat is the element or the receptacle it plugs into. Burnt contacts in that receptacle are ordinary where something has boiled over, and fitting a new element into a damaged receptacle destroys the new element, so both get inspected together.
On induction and ceramic tops the failures are different: a zone that clicks on then drops out is usually pan size or pan material before it is the board, touch controls that behave erratically are moisture or grease across the sensor strip, and a cooling fan that has stopped will push the electronics into protection. Telling a failed board from a cracked surface matters before ordering, because the two are very different numbers.


Water left standing in the tub starts at the filters and sump, moves to the drain pump, and ends at the hose loop under the sink, which installers sometimes leave lying flat so the machine siphons back on itself. Before booking, check whether the kitchen sink itself is draining: if the sink is slow, the dishwasher is a symptom rather than the problem.
Water on the floor at the door is either the door seal or foam from too much rinse aid or the wrong detergent, and on a kitchen floor those look identical. Dishes coming out wet is rinse aid before it is the heating circuit.
A fridge that runs constantly but drifts warm is rarely a dead compressor. The fault is usually in the defrost circuit or the evaporator fan, and the giveaway is a freezer that still holds while the fresh food side climbs: frost builds on the evaporator and air stops moving between the compartments.
Water pooling under the crispers is a blocked defrost drain, which is a clearing job rather than a parts job. Where the fault does turn out to be the sealed system, that is separate work needing an ODP certificate and a trade Certificate of Qualification, and we tell you which side of that line your fault sits on before quoting.


A machine that will not drain or spin starts at the pump filter and the drain hose, not at the pump. On a front loader, a leak from the front is almost always the door boot seal, split at the six o'clock position where coins and hairclips collect. Walking and banging is load distribution and levelling before it is the suspension.
One thing worth knowing on this brand: some Kaiser washers are built around control boards from other manufacturers. If yours turns out to carry an Ariston or Indesit board, that changes both the diagnosis and where the part comes from, and we identify it from the plate and the board itself rather than from the badge on the door.
A dryer that tumbles without heat is the element, a thermostat or the thermal fuse, diagnosed by measurement. The fuse is the one worth understanding, because it is a symptom rather than a cause: it opens when the machine overheats, and the reason is usually the lint filter or the exhaust run. Replacing it without clearing the airway buys a few weeks.
On a condenser or heat pump dryer there is no duct to clear, and the equivalent job is the condenser block and its filters, which choke with lint and quietly double the cycle time. A burning smell means stop using it now.

AVG is the house brand of Les Distributions Avantgarde, a Quebec importer and wholesaler bought by Distinctive in July 2023. Distinctive is a division of Groupe Amiel alongside Corbeil Appliances, and it is the same distributor that handles Asko in Canada, so if a name on this page looks familiar from our Asko page, that is why.
The Canadian AVG range is narrow. Of the AVG products listed at Home Depot Canada, thirty-six of thirty-seven are range hoods; the remainder are a wine cellar and a refrigerator. Dealers such as Tasco, Appliance Canada, Goemans and BonPrix carry the same three categories. We could not confirm AVG dishwashers, dryers or standalone freezers on sale here at all, and washers only as a parts listing rather than a current line.
Two things worth knowing before you ring. Distinctive does not currently list AVG among the brands it services, so if your appliance is still inside its importer warranty, call Distinctive first rather than paying us for a visit. And Distinctive's own Aviva brand shares model numbers with AVG at some Canadian dealers, so if a part search comes back empty under AVG it is worth trying Aviva.
Range hoods are the AVG appliance most Canadian homes actually have, in under-cabinet, wall-mounted, island and power pack form. Tasco, which sells the line, describes the hood range as having been introduced to the Canadian market only a few years ago and having built a reputation as a reliable product.
The most common call is a hood that runs but moves almost no air, and the answer is usually grease rather than a fault. Baffle filters that have not been through a dishwasher in a year restrict airflow enough that a healthy motor does very little. We check the filters, the blower wheel and the duct run before anyone talks about a motor.
Where the fault is real it sits in a small number of places: the speed control or capacitor on a hood stuck at one speed, the switch or control panel on a dead unit, the LED driver where the fan runs but the lights do not. One thing to confirm before booking is whether the hood is ducted outside at all, since recirculating installations with charcoal filters are common in condos and are working as installed even when they seem to do nothing. Our general range hood repair page covers the same work on other makes.
Wine cellars were the first product line Avantgarde built, and the range runs from a compact 21 bottle cabinet up to a full-size dual-zone 168 bottle cellar. Many are built in under a counter, which matters for the diagnosis: an under-counter cabinet has restricted airflow by design, and a condenser furred with dust in that space will make a healthy unit run constantly and still drift warm.
A cabinet that will not hold its set temperature is a room, seal and airflow problem far more often than a sealed system problem. We check where it stands, whether the door closes squarely, whether the internal fan is turning, and whether the cabinet is packed so tightly that air cannot move between the bottles. On a dual-zone unit where both zones drift together, the damper or the second-zone fan is usually the cause.
Condensation on the outside of the glass is not a fault, and buzzing or gurgling from the back is refrigerant moving through the circuit. If yours has stopped cooling altogether rather than drifting, the not-cooling checks we run on a fridge apply here too. We service other wine cabinet makes on our Cavavin and Marvel pages.
Bottom-freezer refrigerators are the third AVG line sold in Canada. What comes up on them is ordinary refrigeration work: a cabinet not holding temperature, a bottom freezer icing up, a fan that has seized, door seals that have gone soft. The diagnosis separates a defrost-circuit fault from a failed evaporator fan from the sealed system, and those three cost very different amounts to put right.
Parts are better than you might expect for an importer brand. Reliable Parts Canada carries a stocked AVG catalogue, and Distinctive sends its own out-of-warranty customers to the same supplier. We check availability against your model and serial number before booking rather than after. Our general fridge repair and freezer repair pages cover the same work on other makes.
Both answers are true, which is the whole problem. Avantgarde Pro is a collection made by Kaiser, a manufacturer founded in 1995, German in origin and now run out of London, so an appliance can genuinely be an Avantgarde and carry a Kaiser badge. Separately, Les Distributions Avantgarde was a Quebec importer whose own brand is badged AVG. The two have no connection.
Look at the badge and then at the rating plate. A Kaiser Avantgarde says Kaiser on the front. An AVG says AVG on the plate. If the front and the plate disagree, the plate wins, because that is what the parts are ordered against. Send us a photo of it and we will tell you.
Because we could not verify any. Lists of Kaiser fault codes circulate on aggregator sites, but none we found cites a Kaiser manual or even a model number, and one carries a warning that its own table does not apply to machines built with Indesit or Ariston controllers. AVG publishes no code list at all. We would rather leave a gap than fill it with something we cannot stand behind.
Sometimes, and we tell you before we start rather than after. There is no Canadian Kaiser distributor we could find, so parts are sourced individually and the wait forms part of the quote. Common wear items like seals, elements, thermostats and pumps are often available generically; control boards and cabinet-specific parts are the slow ones, and on some appliances they are slow enough that replacement is the better answer.
Usually, yes. Reliable Parts Canada stocks an AVG catalogue and Distinctive directs its own out-of-warranty customers there. If a search comes back empty under AVG, it is worth trying Distinctive's Aviva brand, which shares model numbers with AVG at some Canadian dealers.
For an AVG, call Distinctive first, not us. Distinctive does not currently list AVG among the brands it services, so it is worth a call before you spend anything, and we would rather you did that than pay us for a visit you did not need. For a Kaiser bought outside Canada, the warranty almost certainly does not follow the appliance here.
Not at present. We service electric ovens, range cookers, cooktops and dryers, and the full refrigeration, dishwashing and laundry range on the electric side.
Labour runs $92 to $278 depending on the job, plus parts. Our technician diagnoses at your address and gives you the price before starting, and on either of these brands that quote includes the expected parts wait. The service call is free when you go ahead with the repair, and completed work carries up to three months on parts and labour.
Across the Greater Toronto Area, Barrie, London, Ottawa, Vancouver, Winnipeg, Halifax and New York City, each with its own local number. The service areas page lists the number nearest you.
If the plate turns out to say something else entirely, our fridge repair, dishwasher repair, washer repair, dryer repair, oven repair and stove and cooktop repair pages cover the rest. For other European built-in makes see Asko, Ariston and Blomberg.